The latest in hair care formulation

Written on: July 2, 2015 by SprayTM


AkzoNobel launched a new hair fixative that combines the performance of a synthetic

polymer with the sustainability of a partially naturally derived material. BIOSTYLE XH polymer (INCI: Maltodextrin/VP Copolymer) allows formulators to develop cost-effective styling aids with improved gel clarity, product aesthetics and on-hair performance. BIOSTYLE XH polymer—XH for extra hold—is designed especially for use in such products as mousse, clear

hair gels, creams, waxes and other styling aids. Partially derived from renewable resources,

BIOSTYLE XH polymer is formed by the reaction of vinyl pyrrolidone (NVP) and maltodextrin.

Supplied as a ~ 25% active solution in water, BIOSTYLE XH polymer is a liquid and saves on mixing time at the production scale. The polymer is nonionic and compatible with rheology modifiers such as Carbomer and most common styling ingredients, enabling wide formulation versatility. BIOSTYLE XH polymer can be formulated from 1% to 9% active in hair styling gels and 1% to 6% active in other styling applications.


Ashland Inc.
Ashland Inc. launched Conditioning Spray Milk with Dynagen biofunctional. Applied to the scalp, it leaves hair fuller, stronger and shinier. In vivo studies with the formulation demonstrate measurable benefits in the terms of hair strength, while a consumer panel study revealed consumer-perceivable benefits in terms of fuller, stronger, shinier and healthier hair-feel. Finally, to maintain the look of beautiful texture during styling, Ashland demonstrated a working spray formulated along with the Advantage 4910 polymer.


BASF has put together the “Trends & Textures Box”—a set of formulations tailored to meet current hair styling trends. It contains the Enduring Performance Styling Gel, which harnesses the thickening performance of Luvigel Fit UP: The gelling agent does not thin and run in the presence of salts. Sleek & Styled Bodying Cream provides texture and hold with BASF’s cationic polymer Luviquat PQ11 AT 1. Out of the Shower Wet Look Styling Gel formulation provides this strong hold with Ultrahold Power. BASF harnesses the natural sugar emulsifier Emulgade Sucro to create the soufflé-like texture of its Sugar Spun Smoothing Soufflé formulation. It was developed to effectively smooth down flyaway hair, condition dry ends and provide the hair with a soft and silky finish. BASF’s Rock Hard Styling Gel utilizes the anionic polymer Luviset One for gel creation and setting properties and the cationic polymer Luviquat Supreme AT1 boosts the formulation’s styling performance and offers the added benefit of heat protection.


Crodasone P (INCI: Hydrolyzed Pea Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol) from Croda is an advanced copolymer derived from Pisum sativum or “pea”, a superfood rich in essential amino acids, and silicone designed for hair care systems. Studies have shown that Crodasone P offers proven protection against cuticle cracking caused by common hair styling practices such as blow-drying, combing and styling. Due to its complex polymeric structure of protein and silicone components, it cross-links on drying to form a conditioning and protective film network to provide heat-activated cuticle defense in all types of hair care products. Suggested use levels: 1-5%


Dow Corning
Dow Corning unveiled the new Dow Corning CB-3046 Fluid for water-based hair care formulations. It offers frizz-taming control without heavy feel or styling difficulties. It enhances hair alignment for sleek styles and curl definition for full, wavy hair styles. It also increases shine and provides protection against heat. Dow Corning CB-3046 Fluid supports the formulation of water-based leave-in frizz control products such as dual-phase sprays, and can also be used in anhydrous serums. The technology allows for cold processing and enables clear formulations if desired. The new material is listed in the Catalogue of Cosmetics Ingredients Used in China.


DSM Personal Care
In addition to its aerosol and spray applications, TILAMAR Fix A140 from DSM Personal Care now enables hair formulators to create diverse styling products such as mousses, waxes, creams and fluids. TILAMAR Fix A140 provides bending stiffness and elasticity. In sprays, it has also demonstrated its fast-drying properties without stickiness. The product also proved to deliver high performance in the presence of water, essential for pump spray applications, demonstrating its multi-functionality. Thanks to a closed production system, high-tech packaging with zoning and laminar flow facility and the implementation of Hazard Analysis & Critical Points (HACCP) in the manufacturing process, DSM is now able to provide a new version of TILAMAR Fix A140 without preservatives.


Evonik launched VARISOFT EQ 100 (INCI proposed: Quaternium-98), a premium hair conditioning agent with improved performance and sustainability features. The 100% active esterquat provides superior manageability, lubricity and softness to hair. The sustainability profile of VARISOFT EQ 100, including its ready biodegradability, lower ecotox compared to common benchmark, cold-processability, and its primarily renewable, non palm-based feedstock, is supporting a more environmentally conscious approach in the cosmetic industry, according to the company. It is a solvent-free and non-flammable liquid with reduced risk during transport or production, and increased flexibility during processing. Applications in the hair care market include hair conditioning sprays and treatments, styling products, conditioning rinses and shampoos and hair dyes.

Sederma launched Apiscalp, which fights dandruff, itching, dryness and hyperseborrhea to provide beauty and comfort to both oily scalp and dry scalp. It controls the local microflora (Malassezia) proliferation, restores the scalp stratum corneum integrity and regulates the epidermal differentiation and desquamation. Apiscalp is a plant-based ingredient obtained from the sustainable supercritical CO2 extraction process. It complies with the Chinese regulation for cosmetic ingredients.